Fire Prevention
Home can be your shelter from the storm. Home, according to American writer and philosopher Elbert Hubbard, is the abode of the heart. But home can also be a dangerous place as attested to by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA).
The NFPA reports that fire departmens answered calls to nearly 400,000 home fires in 2006. The leading causes of home fires are associated with cooking, heating, electrical problems, and smoking.
To protect your home, follow the following guidelines:
- Beware of leaving flammables on or near the stove, including paper plates, plastic bags, pot holders, and oven mitts. In 2005, 67 percent of home fires started with the range or stove.
- Don’t leave the kitchen when you are using the stovetop or broiling in the oven. If you have to answer the door or tend to the children, turn the stove off until you get back.
- Immediately replace any damaged electrical cords. If you have small children, install tamper-resistant electrical receptacles.
- Keep lamps and light bulbs away from curtains, bedding, and anything else that can burn.
- Install and test your fire alarms and carbon monoxide alarms.
- If you smoke, do it outside. Never smoke in a house where oxygen is present. Keep any lighters or matches locked up and out of reach of children.
Deaths from residential fires occur most frequently between midnight and 4a.m. when the smoke and darkness can cause confusion.
Be sure everyone knows two ways to get out of the house. Have them practice finding their exits with their eyes closed. If a window is involved, be sure it’s easy to open. Have frequent fire drills with your family to make sure that everyone gets out safely incase of a fire.
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GFCI Receptacles
The GFCI
A “GFCI” is a ground fault circuit interrupter. A ground fault circuit interrupter is an inexpensive electrical device that, if installed in household branch circuits, could prevent over two-thirds of the approximately 300 electrocutions still occurring each year in and around the home. Installation of the device could also prevent thousands of burn and electric shock injuries each year.
The GFCI is designed to protect people from severe of fatal electric shocks. Because a GFCI detects ground faults, it can also prevent some electrical fires and reduce the severity of others by interrupting the flow of electric current.
The Problem
Have you ever experienced an electric shock? If you did, the shock probably happened because your hand or some other part of your body contacted a source of electrical current and your body provided a path for the electrical current to go to the ground, so that you received a shock.
An unintentional electric path between a source of current and a grounded surface is referred to as a “ground-fault.”
Ground Faults
Ground faults occur when current is leaking somewhere, in effect, electricity is escaping to the ground. How it leaks is very important. If your body provides a path to the ground for this leakage, you could be injured, burned, severely shocked, or electrocuted.
Some examples of accidents of this nature include: five and six year old children in Texas being fatally electrocuted when a plugged-in hair dryer fell into the tub while they were bathing; a three-year old child in Kansas being fatally electrocuted when she touched a faulty counter top.
These two electrocutions occurred because the electrical current escaping from the appliance traveled through the victim to ground (in these cases, the grounded plumbing fixtures). Had a GFCI been installed, these deaths would probably have been prevented because a GFCI would have sensed the current flowing to ground and would have switched off the the power before the electrocution occurred.
How the GFCI works
In the home’s wiring system, the GFCI constantly monitors electricity flowing in a circuit to sense any loss of current. If the current flowing through the circuit differs by a small amount from that returning, the GFCI quickly switches off to that circuit. The GFCI interrupts power faster than a blink of an eye to prevent a lethal dose of electricity. You may receive a painful shock, but you should not be electrocuted or receive a serious shock injury.
Suppose a bare wire inside an appliance touches the metal case. The case is then charged with electricity. If you touch the appliance with one hand while the other hand is touching a grounded metal object, like a water faucet, you will receive a shock. If the appliance is plugged into an outlet protected by a GFCI, the power will be shut off before a fatal shock would occur.
Availability of GFCI’s
Three common types of ground fault circuit interrupters are available for home use
- Receptacle type–This type of GFCI is used in place of the standard duplex receptacle found throughout the house. It fits into the standard outlet box and protects you against “ground faults” whenever an electrical product is plugged into the outlet. Most receptacle-type GFCI’s can be installed so that they also protect other electrical outlets further “down stream” in the branch circuit.
- Circuit breaker type–In homes equipped with circuit breakers rather than fuses, a circuit breaker GFCI may be installed in a panel box to give protection to selected circuits. The circuit breaker GFCI serves a dual purpose – not only will it shut off electricity in the even of a “ground-fault,” but it will also trip when a short circuit or an over-load occurs. Protection covers the wiring and each outlet, lighting fixture, heater, etc. served by the branch circuit protected by the GFCI in the panel box.
- Portable type–Where permanent GFCI’s are not practical, portable GFCI’s may be used. One type contains the GFCI circuitry in a plastic enclosure with plug blades in the back and receptacle slots in the front. It can be plugged into a receptacle then the electrical product is plugged into the GFCI. Another type of portable GFCI is an extension cord combined with a GFCI. It adds flexibility in using receptacles that are not protected by GFCI’s.
Where Should GFCI’s Be Installed?
In homes built to comply with the National Electrical Code, GFCI protection is required for most outdoor receptacles, bathroom receptacle circuits, garage wall outlets, kitchen receptacles, and all receptacles in crawl spaces and unfinished basements.
Owners of homes that do not have GFCI’s installed in all of those critical areas specified in the latest version of the Code should have them installed and brought up to code. For broad protection, GFCI circuit breakers may be added in many panels of older homes to replace ordinary circuit breakers. For homes protected by fuses, you are limited to receptacle or portable-type GFCI’s and these may be installed in areas of greatest exposure such as the bathroom, kitchen, basement, garage, and outdoor circuits.
A GFCI should be used whenever operating electrically powered garden equipment (lawn mower, hedge trimmer, edger, etc.). Consumers can obtain similar protection by using GFCI’s with electric tools (drills, saws, sanders, etc.) for do-it-yourself work in and around the house.
Installing GFCI’s
Circuit breaker and receptacle-type GFCI’s may be installed in your home by a qualified, licensed electrician. Receptacle-type GFCI’s may be installed by knowledgeable consumers familiar with electrical wiring practices who also follow the instructions accompanying the device. When in doubt about the proper procedure, contact a licensed electrician. DO NOT INSTALL IT YOURSELF!
Testing the GFCI’s
All GFCI’s should be tested once a month to make sure they are working properly and protecting you from fatal shock. GFCI’s should be tested after installation to make sure they are working properly and protecting the circuit.
To test the receptacle GFCI, first plug a nightlight or lamp into the outlet. The light should be on. Then press the “TEST” button on the GFCI. The GFCI’s “RESET” button should pop out and the light should go out.
If the “RESET” button pops out but the light does not go out, the GFCI has been improperly wired. Contact an electrician immediately to correct the wiring errors.
If the “RESET” button does not pop out, the GFCI is defective and should be immediately replaced.
If the GFCI is functioning properly, and the lamp goes out, press the “RESET” button to restore power to the outlet.
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IMPORTANT: Electrical Counterfeit Awareness!
Every day, counterfeit electrical products are finding their way into our homes, businesses, and public institutions. These fraudulent products pose a serious financial and legal liability to the electrical industry, and they have become a grave safety crisis for our communities – a crisis that requires immediate action.
Counterfeit electrical products pose significant safety hazards, and can cause deaths, injuries and substantial property loss in the home and the workplace if left undetected.
The Electrical Safety Foundation International (EFSI), in cooperation with the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA). has launched Counterfeits Can Kill, a national electrical counterfeit awareness program to help educate the public about the dangers of electrical counterfeit products.
What is Electrical Counterfeiting?
Trademark counterfeiting has reached the electrical sector. Counterfeiters have targeted well-known industrial and consumer brands, and registered certification marks of testing and certification laboratories.
Although counterfeit products may appear as excellent copies of their original counterparts, these products are often made using inferior materials and lax methods to produce substandard products. Advertised at prices unable to be matched by a genuine brand manufacturer, these products have failed to pass minimum safety tests upon investigation by authorities.
Undetected counterfeit electrical products such as circuit breakers, batteries, extension cords, and holiday lights can cause fires, shocks, explosions, and electrocutions.
Facts About Counterfeiting and Electrical Products
- According to The Gallup Organization, less than one-third of Americans are aware that counterfeit versions of electrical products such as batteries, extension cords, and circuit breakers even exist.
- Counterfeit goods account for 5%-7% of global activity, a value of nearly $600 billion.
- In 2007, the U.S. Bureau of Customs and Border Protection (CBP) confiscated nearly $200 million worth of counterfeit products – the equivalent of 37 seizures per day.
- By mid-year 2008, CBP had already seized 796 shipments of counterfeit goods, valued domestically at $24.8 million – a 28% increase in total number of seizures and a 30% increase from mid-year 2007.
- In 2006, counterfeit electrical products made up 5% of total seizures reported by CBP. One year later, these goods represented 8% of total seizures, valued at more than $16 million.
- In a recent study conducted by the Electrical Safety Foundation International (ESFI), 60% of Americans surveyed admitted being unable to distinguish between an original and a counterfeit electrical product.
- According to The Gallup Organization, the most effective deterrents cited by consumers in preventing them from purchasing counterfeit goods are the possibility of supporting terrorism, causing harm to a loved one, and supporting organized crime.
- 64% of counterfeit electrical products are purchased from authorized retailers.
Saftey Tips: Guidelines Designed to Help Consumers Identify and Avoid Potentially Dangerous Counterfeit Electrical Products
- Use established vendors and authorized retailers. Purchase electrical products from reputable retailers who obtain their goods from legitimate distributors and authorized manufacturers. Avoid purchasing electrical products at deep discount stores, flea markets, or bargain warehouses.
- Exercise caution in online transactions. The convenience and anonymity of online shopping have been key factors in the dramatic rise in the growing inventory of counterfeit electrical products in the United States. Do your homework when conducting business from online. Be especially wary of purchasing electrical products directly from unknown companies or unauthorized sellers, particularly in countries such as China, Russia, and India, where counterfeiting is a major issue.
- Check for certification marks. Quality electrical products sold in the United States should be certified by nationally recognized testing laboratories for safety. Look for certification marks from laboratories such as UL, CSA, or ETL-SEMKO. If you have outstanding concerns about the marks, contact the certifier prior to product purchase or use.
- Scrutinize labels and packaging. Distinguishing between an original product and its counterfeit version can be challenging, but product packaging and warning labels offer a valuable source of information and may reveal important telltale warning signs. Make sure that labels and packaging are free of grammatical errors, and that any information provided is consistent with information elsewhere on the package.
- Avoid products that lack any identifying brand label or affiliation. Make sure that the name and contact information of the product manufacturer is clearly displayed on the packaging and/or the product. Legitimate manufacturers are proud of their products and stand by them. If this information is missing, then consider an alternative product or retailer.
- Trust your instincts. Beware of bargains that seem too good to be true. Counterfeiters often use inferior materials and avoid key manufacturing steps to reduce the cost of their products, allowing them to be sold at prices no genuine brand manufacturer can match. Electrical products sold at extremely low prices may be counterfeit or defective.
- Be proactive. Organizations such as the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and Underwriters Laboratories (UL) provide up-t-date information about product recalls on their websites. These publicly-searchable databases track detailed descriptions of product appearance, conditions of sale, make, model, hazard, and distributor.
(All information taken from the ESFI website at http://www.esfi.org/cms/node/134)
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Alternative Heat Sources & Firewood
Wood stoves and pellet stoves are in style as demand increases. You can still see wood stoves in cabins, family rooms, and workshops.. More than ever, they are appearing in beautiful homes and finding their way into the living room. Whether or not there is a fire burning behind their glass doors, they are a handsome room addition with their brass legs and attractive firebox designs.
They save heating costs. Withhigh energy prices, they especially save money if the owner has a lot of trees or can find trees to cut up. In that case, sweat is the main price of heating. Dealers say sales of wood stoves are up 250 percent over last years. Pellet stoves are becoming the alternative heat source of choice. They run partly on electricity and use sawdust capsules the size of rabbit food as the main fuel.
They are clean burning and convenient. After pouring pellets into the hopper, the fire lights when a button is pushed. At Home Depot, sales of pellet stoves are about siz times the level of 2007 sales. The national average price for pellet fuel is about $250 per ton, according to the Wall Street Journal. It takes three tons annually to heat the average home if the stove is its main heat source.
Gas-burning inserts are a better choice. All stoves and inserts must pass EPA standards for low emissions. The U.S. Energy Information Administration predicts that the average household will spend 20 percent more this winter on natural gas, propane, and electricity. The price of heatnig oil could rise by 31 percent.
Finding The Best Firewood
A crackling fire on a chilly evening will go a long way to warm the heart and soul. Fires also provide a cozy place for friends and family to gather, especially during the holidays. You can use this handy guide to help you pick the best wood for your fireplace.
Types of Firewood –In general, oak is one of the most popular firewoods. There are many different oak varieties available. Oak is lng burning, usually lasting 1 to 1 1/2 hours per log. It’s slightly higher prices than other woods, but it smells nice, splits easy, and lasts long. Other popular wood burning alternatives would be: ash, beech, birch, dogwood, elm, hickory, maple, pinion pine, pine, pecam mesquite, and juniper.
The Key To Good Firewood –The wood’s moisture content is one of the key factors for a successful burn, so be sure the firewood has been properly dried. Quality firewood dealers will dry their wood for 12-15 months before selling it. Buying wood from the supermarket will most likely leave you with firewood that’s only been dried for 3 months. Supermarket wood is sold wet and will pop and split when burned. The trick is to know your dealer. By calling the National Chimney Sweet Guild at (317) 871-0030, you can get quality references for firewood dealers in our area.
How FIrewood Is Measures –Firewood should be sold by the cord or increments of a cord. Beware of folks selling firewood by the “truckload”. A cord is a measurement of neatly stacked and rowed firewood that equals 128 cubic feet. The stack measures four-feet tall by four-feet wide by eight-feet long. A good dealer will have increments from an eighth of a cord on up.
Storing Your Firewood –To get the most out of your firewood, you’ll want to store it outside on a rack. Keep the firewood off the ground to prevent rotting. Properly stored firewood can easily last up to a year.
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Sealing and Insulating the Attic Hatch
We all have insulation in our attics to help keep the house warm, but attic access hatches are rarely insulated and sealed properly. Even the smallest gap in your insulation will make your house colder, and even the smallest crack in the air seal will allow warm, moist air to migrate into thettic, reducing the energy efficiency of your house and contributing to mold and mildew growth, premature roof failure, and ice damming.
Because of the need to open and close the hatch, the traditional method of insulation has been to staple a glass fibre batting to the top side of the hatch. However, the batting tends to disintegrate over time as the hatchway is used. The attic hatch itself is usually just a piece of plywood. Often, it has warped over its years of service and no longer sits properly in its frame. It is extremely rare to find the trim around the hatch caulked and sealed, and even when weatherstripping has been installed, the hatch should be latched to ensure it is closed tightly and that air cannot pass through.
To get started on this comfort project, you’ll need two-foot by four-foot sheets of two-inch-thick expanded polystyrene foam (the higher priced blue or pink colored extruded polystyrene foams aren’t necessary; the white expanded type is fine for this job), some polystyrene foam adhesive or a can of one-component polyurethane foam (make sure the adhesive you choose is compatible with your polystyrene), some clear, siliconized caulking for the trim, two hook and eye latches (make sure they’re the right length for your hatch), and a brass handle.
The first step is to cut the polystyrene foam sheets to the size of your hatch. You’ll want four pieces stacked one on top of the other to create eigh-inch thick insulation, for a minimum insulation R-value of 32 (standard level for attic insulation). Adhere your pieces of polystyrene to the top (attic side) of the hatch, making sure the adhesive is given enough time to dry properly.
The next step is to caulk the outside perimeter of the trim to the ceiling, and between the trim and the hatch frame. Then, install the hook and eye latches opposite each other to firmly secure the hatch in position. Finally, install the handle in the middle of the bottom (house side) of the hatch to allow for easier opening and closing of the hatch.
This is a relatively low-cost, simple and quick home improvement project suitable for even a beginner Do-It-Yourselfer, but you’ll find it makes a big difference to the comfort, durability, and energy efficiency of your home.
(Taken from Cozy Home Cornerby ZeroDraft House Doctor)
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Seal Recessed Light Fixtures to Combat Wet Attics, Mold, & Mildew
Recessed light fixtures go by many names – in Canada, they are often called potlights, while in the U.S. they are called canlights, and in Austrailia they’re referred to as downlights. Whatever you choose to call them, recessed light fixtures have become extremely popular and are being installed in increasing numbers in rooms of all kinds, in both new construction and as a retrofit measure. The Canadian record for fixtures in one house leading to an attic is 166; in the U.S. it is 444.
If these fixtures are not properly sealed, the heat from the bulb warms the attic space when they are turned on, and when off (typically overnight), down drafting can occur and create severe discomfort for occupants.
Early fixtures, because of the heat build-up from the bulbs, had to be left exposed in the attic with a minimum six-inch uninsulated space around them. Subsequently, the electrical industry produced fixtures that had a tin box installed over the ballast, which enabled them to be insulated with electrical code approval. However, these boxes on newer fixtures are still unsealed in that the ballast box is vented. Some electrical contractors will claim they are sealed, but indeed they are not.
Recessed light fixtures must be sealed. They should also be insulated, but only when protected by a large enough wood or drywall box to prevent overheating. Even a newer fixture with its tin box will require a wood or drywall box over top of the tin box to allow heat from the bulb to dissipate. The sealing and insulation procedure we’ll outline today follows boxing specifications from B.C. Hydro (www.bchydro.com).
Your box will need to be either 14″ wide x 48″ long x 12″ high for an older fixture, or 21″ wide x 29″ long x 12″ high for a newer fixture. Boxes of these dimensions will, as a rule, dissipate enough heat to avoid a fire hazard or blowing bulbs.
If you choose to hire a professional contractor for this project, they will probably use a two-component polyurethane sealant. However, this product is not generally available from hardware or lumber retail stores and must be obtained from an industrial supplier. If you plan to do the project yourself, you can choose either a one-componentinsulating foam sealant or caulking.
The idea is to create a perfectly airtight separation between the ceiling and the attic. Seal all the joints and seams in the box (this will also hold the pieces of drywall or wood together) and seal the bottom of the box to the ceiling. You will also need to seal where all electrical wires penetrate the box. After sealing, the insulation can be blown or positioned over the box.
Occasionally, access above the light fixture is very difficult (for example, in low-slope roofing or cathedral ceiling situations). Also, on ground floor fixtures the rim joint around the ceiling space is often not effectively sealed at the time of construction. This particularly applies to older houses without plastic vapour barriers or house wraps for wind proofing. Such fixtures can be sealed from below using a combination of silicone caulking and foil tape, as long as you’re sure that there is adequate space above the ceiling for heat dissipation fro the shell of the light fixture.
(Taken from Cozy Home Corner by the ZeroDraft House Doctor)
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